Charmeuse (French: [ʃaʁmøːz])
is a lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave, where the warp
threads cross over three or more of the backing (weft) threads. The
front side of the fabric has a satin finish – lustrous and reflective –
whereas the back has a dull finish. It can be made of silk or a
synthetic lookalike such as polyester. Silk charmeuse is more expensive
and delicate but is softer and a better insulator. Polyester charmeuse
is cheaper and can often withstand machine washing, but it does not
breathe as well as silk. Charmeuse differs from plain satin in that
charmeuse is softer and lighter in weight.
The luster and delicate hand make charmeuse suited to lingerie,
flowing evening gowns, and drapey blouses. Bridal gowns sometime use
charmeuse, however, the fabric does not hold a shape well, so it is not
used for full, flared skirts; the charmeuse tends to cling and hang
against the body. It is best suited to a more fluid, slinky bias cut,
and is too fragile and flimsy for more tailored clothing. It is not used
in menswear, with the exception of underwear such as charmeuse boxer
shorts.
It is one of the more challenging fabrics to sew, and not recommended
for beginners. The fabric is extremely slippery and difficult to
control through the presser foot of a sewing machine. Seams have a
tendency to pucker and pull; a smaller stitch length and finer thread
can minimize this, though the experience of the sewer will impact the
finished result as well. Charmeuse also tends to leave holes and marks
where the fabric was pinned, making the manipulation of pattern pieces
more challenging. For greater ease of sewing, a sizing product such as
Sullivan’s Spray Fabric Stabilizer can be sprayed on before cutting and
washed out after the garment is completed.
Charmeuse tears easily, especially when wet, so dry-cleaning is recommended.
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